yyzine

Swish Splash

2011-03-06T10:19:00.013-05:00

There's a block of Wellington Street E that I always make a point of walking along when heading home from St. Lawrence Market. It runs the length of Berczy Park, right by the Gooderham, one of my favourite buildings in the city (flatirons always makes me smile). There's a surprisingly high concentration of bars and restaurants in the red brick rowhouses that line the block (Lucien, Trevor, Pravda Vodka Bar) but Swish by Han, at #38, caught my attention and curiosity the moment I peeked in the window. The interior of reclaimed wood and contemporary art, with a communal table running down the middle, is warm and inviting. The menu, hanging on the door, presents an interesting modern take on Korean cuisine.

Always in a hurry to get home with my shopping cart filled to the brim, I never had time to just pop in for a bite. So for months I only imagined what the smells and flavours might be like, until we bought tickets to see a play in the Distillery District and wanted to have dinner nearby. Truth be told, we drove by Guu on Church Street first, hoping to snag a table at the perennially popular spot since we were eating so early. But with a crowd hovering around the entrance, we were skeptical about the reported 30 minute wait and continued on to plan B.

From the moment we entered through the thick curtains protecting diners from the cold, we knew we were in for a treat. The aroma was amazing - a mix of sweet and spicy scents swirling (or should I say swishing?) around us. We proceeded to enjoy what we both agreed was one of our best meals to date in Toronto:

Spicy pork buns - little pulled pork sandwiches on ciabatta-type bread

Tempura onion rings - fried in just enough tempura batter to make them delightfully crispy

Crunchy octopus - the actual name of the dish escapes me - deep fried and served with a spicy mayonnaise-y dipping sauce

Short rib ssäm set - literally meaning "wrapped," ssäm refers to a Korean dish that wraps meat in leaf vegetables. This set came with a stack of crisp lettuce leaves, grilled beef short ribs, hoisin sauce and a spicy fermented soybean paste

...all washed down with Sapporo beer on tap (it was tempting to order a soju cocktail, but I was worried I'd snooze through the show)

The service was excellent, the tables spaced well for intimate conversations, and the bill a pleasant surprise: under $80 for two.

There's not much buzz about this place on the internet, but there should be!

http://swishbyhan.wordpress.com/
(647) 343-0268

It's Getting Better All the Time

2011-01-02T00:31:00.002-05:00

We popped into the Rosedale Diner for a bite before going to a New Year's Eve party and were once again blown away by the quality of the food, the warm ambience and the friendly, attentive service. The Diner was one of the first restaurants we went to when we first moved to Toronto in 2007 and it's only gotten better over the years. We almost always order the same combo: hummus and calamari as appetizers and the chicken dijonaisse and a special as mains - a recent special was homemade sausage with truffle frites. We're lucky living right around the corner, but it's well worth a trip!

Http://rosedalediner.com

Single Issue Voter

2010-06-13T18:20:00.022-04:00

If I was able to vote in the Toronto mayoral election (which alas I am not, as a non-citizen resident), one issue would top my list of concerns: the abysmal state of the street food situation in Toronto. I've opined about this before (http://yyzine.blogspot.com/2009/01/i-take-it-all-back.html), but my recent trip to Portland, Oregon, named as the top street food city in the WORLD by Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine has left me positively steaming.

Let's run the numbers, shall we?

Portland:
* Population - 582,130
* Demographics - 78.6% white
* The Portland public school system has over 1,800 students who come from homes where over 60 different languages are spoken.

Toronto:
* Population - 2.5 million
* Demographics - 53% white
* Half of Toronto's population was born outside of Canada
* No single nationality or culture dominates Toronto's immigrant population, placing it among the most diverse cities in the world
* 47% of the population has a mother tongue other than English or French
* The city's 911 emergency services are equipped to respond in over 150 languages
* The Toronto District School Board is the most multilingual and multicultural school board in the world. More than 50% of 270,000 students speak a language other than English at home

Where would you expect to find better quantity and quality of street food?

Well, you're wrong.

Number of street food carts in Portland: 500 (e.g, Southern pulled pork buns, Mexican burritos, Korean bulgogi, Thai-style Hainan chicken...) - $25 propane permit and a couple of hundred bucks for a health inspection.

Number of street food carts in Toronto: 310 at designated spots with annual permits costing $5,000 or more. Street vendors are prohibited from selling any meat that isn't pre-cooked, and hot dogs are pretty much the only thing they can legally sell. Also banned are any toppings or sauces that require refrigeration, hence no mayo or cheese. (and no espresso carts with milk, either...)

According to a glowing article in the June 11, 2010 issue of the Vancouver Sun, "Here in Portland, we have a couple of agencies who offer micro-lending to carts who wouldn’t normally qualify for standard business loans...Allow the carts to sell a quality, safe product without the owners having to hurdle red tape with multiple agencies.”

And in Toronto? It's basically socialized street food. A pathetic food cart "pilot" competitively selected 15 street food vendors, the final stage of which involved review by a small panel of food experts who judged the proposed food items from the standpoint of diversity, quality and culinary excellence. Only 8 vendors decided to proceed. The verdict? A recent Toronto Star article cuts to the chase: "ethnic street food offerings bland."

Visit my "Portland or Toronto?" photo album at http://on.fb.me/uX21zw

Destination: Train Station

2010-03-27T08:06:00.037-04:00

When the latest issue of Architectural Record arrived in the mail, I paged through it fully prepared to find the usual array of stunning buildings and public spaces in locations I would be unlikely to ever visit. But after seeing the photos of the new Santiago Calatrava-designed Liège-Guillemins TGV Railway Station in Liège, Belgium and googling to find it was only an hour from Brussels where I was going the following week.. and bingo, I hit the jackpot!

And so on March 10 I boarded a train for my first trip planned entirely around seeing a building (I've made my share of pilgrimages for Frank Lloyd Wright, Gaudi and Hundertwasser to be sure, but they weren't the impetus for the trip). The building was as spectacular in person as in the magazine photos, and even more impressive when you see it in the context of the small brick buildings of the surrounding city. On the outside, it looks like a giant spaceship ready to take off, perhaps more what you'd expect for an airport. The inside evokes a soaring cathedral.

With a few hours to spare before my return train, I hopped in a cab to visit the Grand Curtius, which re-opened about a year ago after a 50 million euro redevelopment. The building is an imposing red brick and stone structure overlooking the Meuse River, built in the early 1600s as a private mansion for Jean Curtius, industrialist and munitions supplier to the Spanish army. I was delighted to find beautifully designed gallery spaces with interesting archeology, weaponry, decorative art and religious art collections, most with informative descriptions in English.

On the ride back to the station, we passed a beautiful sculpture of a diver soaring over the river.

Definitely a worthwhile day trip!

Not Quite Ready for Prime Time, Apparently

2009-06-06T16:40:00.011-04:00

From today's Weekend Edition National Public Radio program in the U.S. http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=105064968

"Close your eyes and imagine a perfect vacation. Where you would choose to go if money, distance and time were no limitation? Paris and/or Provence? Rio or Hong Kong? The peaks of New Zealand? Or the pastas, porcinis and vinos of Tuscany? A recent poll says you'd go to Canada. An online survey of people in 20 countries shows that Canada is the place most people would choose to visit if Loonies — were no limitation. Host Scott Simon speaks with the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation's Michael Enright about the new study."

At last! The recognition we deserve! Surely listeners from around the world will come and spend their tourist dollars in Canada this summer!

But wait a minute. What's Michael Enright's first comment upon hearing the news about Canada's standing in this poll? Laughing, he says "my first reaction, being a Canadian of course, is I have to apologize to all the other countries. You see, that's part of our national charater, so I'm really sorry to those folks. "

He goes on to describe "the perfect week in Canada." On Ontario? "Hmm, if you like fishing and hunting and shooting and killing small animals, I suppose Ontario is ok. Toronto is the most multicultural city in the world, the food is varied and interesting." About BC? "Now BC is very interesting because the people who live there know that they've got it made, and they have probably the most beautiful geography in the country, and they never stop talking about it, but they don't tell you about the rain and as you know, it rains all the time." No mention at all of the Canadian rockies. He mainly praised Newfoundland and Prince Edward Island, but even there "you set the clock half an hour ahead, 1956."

I should have known better. The story's headline on the NPR website reads, "Your Top Vacation Spot? Canada, Apparently."

If You Have To Say It... What Does It Say?

2009-05-23T21:08:00.008-04:00

As Toronto celebrates its 175th year, I'm detecting a bit of a shift in the rhetoric about its standing as a city from an odd combination of self-conscious insecurity and righteous indignation, to the realization that, by jove, we are terrific and we shouldn't apologize for it.

Exhibit D*, from an article about the local literary scene in the Official Guide to Doors Open Toronto (which is celebrating its 10th year and a wonderful way to experience the city - more on that later):

"In the greater scheme of things, Toronto is still a bit of an adolescent. But the confidence that our writers now have to set their work in Toronto and to find their inspiration in Toronto speaks to a city that's coming of age, wanting to be real, not trying to be a Paris or London or New York or wherever." Jane French, Project Manager, Doors Open Toronto

"In the past, we've had this compulsion to compare ourselves to other cities - to say that literature matters if it comes from New York or Chicago or Mumbai or London or Dublin, but if it comes from Toronto it's provincial and parochial and doesn't matter as much. That's been part of the problem. What's changed is that we've started measuring the city against its own merits." Amy Lavender Harris, Geography Professor, York University

*This exhibit business began in my April 9 post:
http://yyzine.blogspot.com/2009/04/my-new-hobby.html

And the Winner is...

2009-05-15T02:08:00.004-04:00

A few weeks ago, I threw out the challenge: "I'm anxiously waiting for the day when an article in a popular media outlet boldy praises Toronto without apologizing, looking backwards or making comparisons."

And the winner is... The New York Times. In a travel article on Toronto, posted today but dated for Sunday's issue:

http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/05/17/travel/17hours.html?hpw

My favourite line is about the Frank Gehry-designed renovation of the AGO: "It’s a stunning homecoming for an architect credited with helping other cities flourish, not that Toronto needs a hand."

There's a pretty nice slideshow too (can you guess the location of the photo above?)

http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2009/05/17/travel/0517-toronto_14.html

Bumptious Yankee Alert

2009-05-15T01:33:00.005-04:00

Exhibit C, From today's Globe and Mail:
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/LAC.20090514.BARBER14ART2258/TPStory/?query=toronto

On Richard Florida, "tireless promoter of the so-called 'creative economy,' best-selling economist and famous would-be Canadian":

"Clearly, this man will never fit in to Toronto, no matter how hard he tries...He is relentlessly positive about the city and its prospects. He's all silver linings, no clouds. He's so American!That's what makes him such a great catch for Toronto, despite any eye-rolling that mention of the "creative class" might now inspire among hype-weary locals. The city needs a regular infusion of bumptious Yankees. It wouldn't be Toronto without them."

Well, having just reviewed the definitions of bumptious available online, I'm not going to count myself as one of them. A great catch, maybe!

Americans Aren't Helping Matters

2009-04-24T22:14:00.007-04:00

Since taking up my new hobby (http://yyzine.blogspot.com/2009/04/my-new-hobby.html) I'm noticing that Americans aren't helping matters. On the cover of the May 2009 issue of Conde Nast Traveler magazine appears a prominent "CANADA NOW! 16-PAGE PULLOUT EXTRA" which actually prompts me to buy it (well, that and I happen to be in the US where it's cheaper). What's the first line? "Move over, New York. Step aside, LA. These days, the continent's hottest metropolises are north of the border. Welcome to the new Canada!" The section on Toronto begins "Peter Ustinov once quipped that Toronto is New York run by the Swiss. It was meant as a compliment, but Canada's largest city seems to be on a mission to shrug off its staid reputation by giving itself an architectural makeover."

I'm anxiously waiting for the day when an article in a popular media outlet boldy praises Toronto without apologizing, looking backwards or making comparisons. If you're aware of any, please let me know!

A Big Brother We Can Believe In

2009-04-18T11:55:00.003-04:00

I just want to put in a plug for the Toronto Public Space Committee (TPSC). A self-appointed watchdog of sights and sounds in the public sphere, TPSC first drew my attention with its campaign to rid the city of ugly chain link fences, framing its work in terms of community development: "A self-imposed rusty barrier between neighbours, properties surrounded by chain link look more like jailyards than homes. Fences create feelings of isolation and detachment. By taking them down, we encourage a process of community building." Other campaigns include the "billboard battalion" to hold the city accountable for its strict rules about outdoor advertising (already on the books, but inconsistently enforced) and "city for sale" that is working to ensure that names of city parks, subway stations, libraries, community centres and other public spaces are not sold off and that ethics guidelines are established to inform decisions about corporate sponsorships and donations. Please join me in donating or volunteering to this worthy cause.

http://www.publicspace.ca

My New Hobby

2009-04-09T01:51:00.007-04:00

I really feel terrible doing this, but I just can't help myself. I've recently started a new hobby I'm tentatively calling "the insecurity project." I've been living in Toronto for nearly two years, and I'm totally in love with this city. But the longer I live here, the more evident it is that this city, and in many ways this country, suffers from a serious self-esteem problem - frequently framed in comparison to other places, and always viewing itself as "lesser than". I've started to collect documentation of this phenomenon - mainly from newspaper clippings and online articles so far - and have amassed quite a pile on my office floor in a very short period of time. Actually, I have two piles - one just for pieces by or about Richard Florida. I'm not quite ready to offer theories to explain it - but I am fascinated by it.

Exhibit A, from the August 19, 2008 issue of The Star: "Toronto gets spot on world Monopoly game. But Hogtown takes over for Virginia Ave., while Montreal lands Boardwalk position and Vancouver subs for New York Ave. Well, we're not quite Baltic Ave. - but we're a long way from passing Go. And it looks like Torontonians will have to stroll along Montreal's boardwalk if they want to get there. Hasbro Inc. has announced the top 22 global cities that will make up the first world edition of Monopoly. More than 5.6 million votes were cast for 70 contenders over a six-week period earlier this year, to determine which cities would be featured in the game. And as a nation we can puff our community chests - with three cities on board, Canada tied China for the most representation in the new edition." If we're on the Monopoly board, we must be world-class, right?

Exhibit B, from the January 3, 2009 issue of the National Post. The headline catches my eye: "As the new year begins, so, too, does our 26-part alphabetic accounting of what makes this city special. We start with the visual arts..." I scroll down to the first installment expecting to read an upbeat account, but what do I find? "When it comes to art, Toronto is not New York or London; nor is it Tokyo, Berlin, Paris or even Miami. If you like your art playful and a little wild, be thankful. Some would sniff about Toronto's second-or third-tier position in the visual arts. Others, however, recognize that Toronto offers something none of these other cities can: An arts scene as a study of a work in progress; a place where the challenge is to realize unrealized possibilities -- an unfinished canvas, if you will."

To be continued...

Art Surprise

2009-03-08T09:59:00.004-04:00

Many past disappointments with large art shows have led us to arrive with very low expectations. Usually, we quickly walk up and down the aisles, whispering quips to each other about an artist's evident mental illness or personal vision that should be kept to themselves. We're lucky if one or two artists stand out as having genuine talent and worth lingering over. But our experience last night at the Liberty Grand was entirely different. From the moment we walked into the 1926 Beaux Arts building and spotted a few paintings at the entrance to the Artist Project Toronto, our spirits lifted. (Actually, I already had high hopes from my preview of the show website. When I saw two artists whose work we had seen and admired at galleries around town, I figured not only was it worth going to, but I had better measure the wall in our living room just in case...). The cocktail party atmosphere - with jazz music playing and people admiring the art while sipping wine - made for a delightful escape from the pouring rain. We left with a stack of business cards and a newfound optimism not only about finding a piece for our living room, but about contemporary art in general.

The Artist Project Toronto: www.theartistprojecttoronto.com

Artists of note:

Nava Waxman: www.navawaxman.com

Nahum Flores: http://www.nahumflores.com

Mina Dela Cruz: www.minadelacruz.com

Jessica Rode: www.jessicarode.com

Tammy Ratcliff: www.tammyratcliff.com

Rose Hirano: www.rosehirano.com

Wenyun Hua: www.huawenyun.com

John Ovcacik: www.ovcacik.com

Paul Roorda: www.paulroorda.com

Heidi Barkun: www.heidibarkun.com

Greg Shegler: www.gregshegler.com

Liberty Grand at Exhibition Place: http://www.libertygrand.com/

I Take it All Back

2009-01-21T18:07:00.007-05:00

This photo is not from Toronto

When we were packing up to move from Seattle, I got distracted by a pile of old Gourmet magazines stashed in a closet. When I came across the May 2005 issue on street food from all over the world, I remember opening it in anticipation of what foods it would highlight from my soon-to-be-home city, the most diverse in North America. Wait a minute...I don't see any entries on Toronto...nothing here on any city in Canada! I was disappointed, I was angry. Surely Gourmet magazine was guilty of a terrible oversight! I nearly fired off an email complaint to the editor (she even went to high school in Montreal!) but decided to wait until I had specific places and dishes to recommend.

Well, I've been living here almost two years now and I still haven't sent that email. I take it all back. Gourmet was right.

I've come to learn that Toronto has some of the tightest restrictions in the world on street food. Basically, all that can be served is hot dogs. The city has recently unveiled new regulations intended to encourage diverse offerings, but they are so onerous and expensive, change doesn't look like it's coming anytime soon.

http://www.toronto.ca/alacart/

http://www.thestar.com/article/573295

Where Have You Been All My Life?

2009-01-20T07:45:00.020-05:00

I don't mean to be obnoxious, but let's face it. How many Americans can even name an artist from Canada, never mind the Group of Seven? I lived in Washington DC for 6 years for Christ's sake and can't recall one Canadian painting in the whole Smithsonian! We stumbled upon an Emily Carr exhibit one weekend in Vancouver, but it just didn't register.

Enter the McMichael Collection in Kleinburg (just north of Toronto) and the AGO. In the hands of Franklin Carmichael, Lawren Harris, AY Jackson, Frank Johnston, Arthur Lismer, JEH MacDonald and Frederick Varley in the 1920s (that would be the Group of Seven), the Canadian landscape comes alive. Tom Thomson, inspired by the beauty of Algonquin Park, influenced the group's development. Emily Carr, influenced by the First Nation's communities of the Pacific Northwest coast, was also closely associated with the group. They uniquely capture the color and light of the beauty that surrounds us.

My favourite of the group's contemporaries is David Milne, whose paintings were clearly shaped by living in New York City in his formative years and less reminiscent of the French Impressionists. The New York Times in 1912 called them "violently alive" and in 2005, reviewing a major retrospective at the Met, described his "delicate yet direct watercolors" as "dazzling." Two rooms off the AGO's gorgeous Galleria Italia are devoted to his work and they're just a tease as far as I'm concerned. A google search reveals no movement to start a museum in his honour, but I'd donate to such a cause.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Group_of_Seven_(artists)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Milne_(artist)

http://www.mcmichael.com/

http://www.ago.net/

http://www.metmuseum.org/special/se_event.asp?OccurrenceId={CE2E3C4A-4EAF-4104-B5FF-63294D65232D}

Frankly Speaking

2009-01-18T11:22:00.011-05:00

C5 sets a high bar for museum restaurants (http://yyzine.blogspot.com/2008/02/crystal-as-restaurant-thumbs-up-as.html) and I expected FRANK, the restaurant at the newly re-opened Art Gallery of Ontario to be of the same genre of stunning design, fabulous food and hip atmosphere. Based on my first dining experience there, it's less a destination and more a convenient pit-stop.

With expectations adjusted downwards, FRANK is a pleasant place to meet friends for a bite before, during or after a tour through the gallery. Our table for three at brunch last weekend enjoyed views of the clean and pristine open kitchen, a wall of wine bottles and the curious Frank Stella sculpture dangling from the ceiling (which sadly is not completely visible from any one vantage point, limiting its effect). The menu offered tasty options to satisfy all manner of brunch cravings, which in our case turned out to be sweet, savoury or sandwichy:

*Vanilla French toast with Monforte fresh ricotta, poached apricots, late harvest Vidal syrup and toasted almonds (a reward to cap off 2 weeks on South Beach)

*Twice-baked souffle with caramelized shallots and Maple Dale 4-year-old cheddar, served with beluga lentil and roasted baby carrot salad (called beluga because they're small, black and resemble caviar after cooking).

*The club sandwich of the day (whose ingredients I need my friend to verify since it's not on the online menu...but I can say he enjoyed it).

I'll give FRANK another chance to impress at dinner, but I don't have high hopes from a design standpoint. Although I'm sure the food will be fine, the room just doesn't offer the artistic and architectural drama I'd expect from a restaurant in "an international landmark and Canada’s newest cultural destination."

FRANK Restaurant

Art Gallery of Ontario
317 Dundas Street W

http://www.ago.net/frank

Carts No More!

2009-01-15T01:28:00.016-05:00

I've always had mixed feelings about ordering dim sum from those little carts they wheel around. Usually I'm there for a reason: I have an insatiable craving for steamed shrimp dumplings and nothing else will do. If I'm lucky, the cart with all the steamed items comes rolling by just when I sit down. But most of the time, it's total frustration as carts pass by with every possible alternative.

Well, there's no reason to wait for those carts anymore...

Cha Liu's intimate space overlooks bustling Yonge Street near the corner of Eglinton. It would have been easy to walk right by the place, but the byline "dim sum shop" caught our attention just as we started musing over take-out places for dinner that night. Cha Liu's menu has over 20 steamed and 18 fried and pan seared items. Twenty minutes later, we were out the door with two orders of steamed shrimp dumplings (4 pieces per order at $4.50), one order of steamed shrimp, scallop and asparagus dumplings (3 pieces at $4.50) and one order of beef sui mai (4 pieces at $3.50). We weren't sure how well they'd survive the trip home so we decided not to go overboard in ordering. Turns out they travel very well! But to be honest, I prefer a table by the window during lunch time.

Dynasty's large bustling dining room overlooks Bloor Street between Bay Street and Avenue Road. When you sit down, all of the options are laid out in front of you: a regular menu with several pages of entrees, and a dim sum menu with check-boxes beside nearly 75 choices of varying sizes (S, M, L, XL and XXL), and a pen. The first item listed? Steamed shrimp dumplings. Hmmm... this is looking very promising indeed!

We took the menu by storm and nearly every dish impressed. Besides three orders of you know what, we sampled steamed seafood dumplings with chive, pan fried beef buns, crispy shrimp rolls, steamed BBQ pork buns, deep fried octopus fingers, baby bok choy in supreme broth and a few others I can't remember. I usually frown at Chinese desserts (if it doesn't have chocolate, what's the point?) but the steamed sweet egg yolk buns were a sweet way to end the meal and helped ease the sting of the bill ($35 per person on our first trip; $20 per person on our second).

Both places are dangerous if you have frequent cravings for dim sum...easy to get to, open all day and consistently good! Oh, and at dinner, Dynasty delivers...

Cha Liu Dim Sum Shop

2352 Yonge Street, 2nd Floor

http://www.chaliu.com/

Dynasty Chinese Cuisine

131 Bloor St W, 2nd Floor

www.toronto.com/dynasty

It's What's Inside That Counts

2009-01-09T23:56:00.006-05:00

Street appeal is over-rated. Toronto is filled with hole-in-the-wall looking joints that belie the culinary delights within. Case in point: Cafe California, at 538 Church Street. I'm sure I would have walked right by it had I been in charge of picking a lunch spot (even it's website has no photos of the exterior...). Turns out my friend is neighbours with the owner and has eaten there many times, so that's where we went.

Inside, we found a light-filled and colourful space with the pleasant scents of oregano, garlic and smoked paprika in the air. I had their "signature" Chicken Santa Barbara Salad, a delicious mixture of fresh greens with roasted pine nuts, raisins and mushrooms tossed in a sun-dried tomato and basil pesto vinaigrette and topped with a sliced grilled marinated chicken breast ($16). The generously sized portion could have easily fed two.

The owner stopped by to say hello and we chatted for a while. He moved from Spain and opened the restaurant 20 years ago and hopes to return to Spain in a few years when he retires. When we asked how the economic downturn was affecting the restaurant business, his take was that high-end spots would be hurt the most, but "good value" places like his would survive. Judging from Boba's recent closure and business on this mid-day afternoon, he could be right.

Cafe California, 538 Church Street, http://www.dine.to/cafecalifornia

Bulldog Boycott & Kahawa Karma

2009-01-08T21:58:00.008-05:00

I took another chance on Bulldog Coffee this afternoon - and the barista (a different guy than last time) was even meaner than the first!

http://yyzine.blogspot.com/2008/02/bulldog-barista-is-anything-but.html

He was ok with me (no sneers or snide remarks), but he yelled at a couple for not standing in the right spot in line, and when the woman in front of me (who had ordered three drinks: 2 lattes and a chai latte) asked if the drink he had just plunked down in front of her was the chai latte, he answered snarkily "The chai latte will be the one that DOESN'T have espresso in it."

OK, that's it. I'm now officially boycotting the place!

Contrast that experience with my impromptu stop at Kahawa Coffee House on College Street. Fully planning to caffeinate at Manic Coffee (http://yyzine.blogspot.com/2007/09/manic-mania.html), I have to admit Kahawa's sign on the street with its bold statement about organic, fair trade beans roasted on-site caught my attention and the next thing I knew I was ordering a latte and chatting up the barista. Originally from Vancouver, where he learned his tricks of the trade, he was recently brought on board as manager and roaster. He sounded relieved that Toronto was finally becoming a world class city as far as coffee is concerned. Judging from the drink he made me, I'd have to agree.

Kahawa* Coffee House

388 College Street

http://www.kahawacoffeehouse.com/

*Swahili for coffee

Carnivore's Delight

2009-01-04T16:51:00.013-05:00

I don't even know where to begin in describing the delightful evening we had last night at Cowbell. From the moment we arrived, we were welcomed into this cozy space on Queen W and encouraged to relax and savour a meal made from organic locally grown and raised ingredients.

We started with a glass of sparkling riesling and a toast to the New Year. As we caught up with friends we hadn't seen in a while, it struck us that our waiter (who we later learned was Dining Room Manager Neal Murphy) gave us all the time and space we needed. No annoying interruptions to the conversation to see if we were ready to order, no exasperated looks trying to hurry us along. When nodrog casually mentioned "we should think about ordering," Neal suddenly appeared, ready to explain each dish in detail so we'd be sure to make an informed choice.

Selecting from the 6 appetizers and 8 mains(right) proved to be a challenge, as everything sounded so good. By the time we turned to ordering, several items had already been wiped off the chalkboard. My country duck terrine was terrific and well paired with the honey saffron pear, but I was regretted not trying the many options served on the charcuterie plate. The burger, served medium rare and topped with smoked venison salami, was juicy and delicious.

Cowbell practices "whole animal cooking," using all parts of an animal in the interests of thrift and culinary exploration. When we were told that the meat served on the menu is butchered, smoked and cured just a floor below the dining room, we half-jokingly inquired about taking a tour. "Oh sure, I'll ask Chef to stop by later" was the reply.

What elevated the experience from a meal worthy of return visits to a memorable event was the personal tour of the kitchen, prep area and meat locker with none other than chef/owner Mark Cutrara. For amateur foodies like ourselves, the chance to schmooze with Mark about his cooking philosophy, sous vide, what it takes to run a successful restaurant, and his picks for places to eat in Toronto were an extra special treat! (no, I'm not telling).

Cowbell
1564 Queen Street West @ Sorauren
416-849-1095
www.cowbellrestaurant.ca

GAGA OVER AGO

2008-12-05T23:50:00.013-05:00

I suppose all cities obsess over their latest architectural additions, but I'd have to say that Toronto goes above and beyond other places I've lived. In Seattle, there was certainly a lot of excitement over Frank Gehry's Experience Music Project in 2000 and Rem Koolhaas' Central Public Library in 2004, not to mention the boost in civic pride when the New York Times architecture critic gave each a big thumbs up -- but the city soon moved on. Not so Toronto. Raging debates continue about the Royal Ontario Museum's multi-million dollar makeover last year (from "it's an inspired juxtaposition of old and new" to "what the hell were they thinking?"), with my take on it being "it's a great building, but lousy gallery space." And now the much-anticipated re-opening of a revamped, Frank Gehry-designed Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO).

I have to admit, Gehry's stock as a starchitect fell drastically after we visited his winery in Spain, which seems less about designing a building and more about affixing a wild metal sculpture onto a simple structure. And though I absolutely adore the Disney Performing Arts Center he created for Los Angeles (not to mention the acoustics), I can't help but think of the poor people living in the apartments across the street who have to deal with the glare and soaring temperatures resulting from the reflections off the building's chrome exterior.

But his AGO is something entirely different altogether!

The best view of the building must be from above at a bit of a distance. At street level, it's hard to take in its full effect. But its sweeping lattice grabs your attention and beckons you inside, where the real drama of this building lies. The douglas fir, the natural light and the views from the hallways and spiral staircase, all conspire to create a comfortable and welcoming space that's ideal for experiencing art.

With all due respect to the Group of Seven and Tom Thomson, I'm not sure the collection warrants the $18 admission fee. Luckily we somehow managed to find the guest passes our real estate agent gave us back in July 2007 when the AGO closed for the renovations, but there's always the option of getting in for free on Wed evenings. On second thought, with the 10% member discount in the gift shop (which has some of the most interesting ceramics and jewelry I've seen in this city), maybe we'll just join instead!

AGO

317 Dundas W

http://www.ago.net/home

Napa in the Making?

2008-10-29T18:08:00.001-04:00

Well, maybe that's going a little too far. But the wine region around Neuquén, Argentina more than satisfied our wanderlust (not to mention our palates) for two days while our husbands were working all day. With the help of the hotel staff, we were on our way in a car with a guide within two hours of asking how we could get out to the three wineries that give public tours. Victoria not only spoke English well, she worked for three years at one of the wineries, teaches wine tasting courses and is studying to be a sommelier!

On our daily jaunts to the wine region, we zipped passed Southwestern U.S.-looking terrain, groves of apple trees and rambleshack parillas. We criss-crossed the Neuquén river between Neuquén and Rio Negro provinces. We tasted Parker-esque malbecs, merlots, cabs and pinots at three wineries with high production values and restaurants with floor-to-ceiling windows of vineyards.

Our first stop on day 1 was NQN winery (http://www.bodeganqn.com/) where after a quick tour and wine tasting, we had a leisurely lunch. JM, a vegetarian traveler in one of the more carnivorous countries in the world, was particularly impressed with her salad ("a very flavorful and light salad, with green beans and corn."). My grilled pork with sweet potatoes and apple chutney was comfort food at its best. The post-meal cortado (a shot of espresso with steamed milk) helped to prevent napping on the way to our next stop, Bodega Fin del Mundo (literally, the end of the world). (http://www.bodegadelfindelmundo.com/).

On day 2, we took a different route across the Neuquén River, where we stopped to snap photos of the bridge, the deep blue water and three dogs napping nearby.

The final stop on our tour, Bodega Familias Schroeder (http://www.familiaschroeder.com/) had the least interesting wines but gorgeous landscaping (sweet-smelling lavender, palm trees, park benches) and an amazing restaurant that would have made Ferran Adrià proud, with his goal

"to provoke, surprise and delight the diner." (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferran_Adria)

The chef at Saurus (named for the dinosaurs discovered under the building a few years back) pulled out all the stops for his only diners that day. To start, an amuse bouche of fruit ravioli with blueberry foam:

An appetizer of beet carpaccio with arugula, parmesan, berries and hazelnuts:

Entrees to satisfy meat-lovers and vegetarians alike (though a bit heavy on the carbs... yes, that's bacon-wrapped grilled chicken with mashed sweet potatoes and roasted potatoes on the side!).

And for dessert... white chocolate soup with floating chunks of pound cake and a dusting of dark chocolate!

The only thing missing was other people. Granted we visited on weekdays, but I have a feeling weekends are just as empty. Tourism is just beginning to creep into the region, and with the nearest major town a 45 minute drive away with not much in between, it unfortunately may be a long time in coming.

Not Your Usual College Town Cuisine

2008-10-08T00:56:00.000-04:00

I've figured out a routine that works quite well when I'm on quickie business trips to less than top-tier destinations - as in my visit to Madison, Wisconsin this week!

*Book a room in a centrally located hotel.

*Check out the alternative weekly paper a few days before arriving - search for the best restaurants, coffee houses, wine stores, galleries and museums (if they don't have such a paper, reconsider the trip).

*Jot the top contenders in your little black moleskine book, google map them in relation to your hotel and be totally psyched to discover most are within walking distance.

*Arrive as early as possible on the day before the work begins.

*Buy the latest issue of the city's monthly magazine on your way out of the airport (if they don't have such a magazine, lower your expectations but remain cautiously optimistic).

*Review the information you've gathered and look for arrows pointing in the same direction. As in: the "chef of the year" on the cover of Madison Magazine was recently given an award by the James Beard Foundation and highlighted by the New York Times Magazine as Madison's "must visit restaurant." Hmm...where to have dinner?

*Give the impression that you're a reviewer from out-of-town without actually saying so. While ordering an espresso macchiato after lunch at the cafe connected to what Gourmet Magazine rates as being one of the best "farm-to-table" restaurants in the country, I casually mentioned that I was doing a taste test of espresso around town. Soon enough, the barista (a cute college kid) came over to regale me with stories of how they use fresh roasted fair trade beans and local milk from grass-fed cows, and how I can try the same coffee with milk from a different dairy farm a few doors up the street. Oh, and a delicious drink with foam art in the shape of an apple, stem and leaf!

*Enter stores with a clear mission, as in: "I've read about your artisanal cheeses and I'm here to buy a 1/4 pound of four varieties that will travel well back with me to Toronto. What do you have for me to taste?" and "I'm looking for wines I can't get back in Toronto - you know, they have government-run liquor stores there and the selection isn't great."

Places I'd go back to in a heart beat:

Cafe Soleil - the casual lunch spot of the famed L'Etoile Restaurant that's been serving up "seasonal menus...inspired by the artisans and small sustainable farms of the Midwest and... rendered with a French technique" since 1976. My $20 lunch was more than memorable: a cup of roasted cauliflower soup with bits of chorizo sprinkled on top with a drizzle of garlic olive oil and the market salad: local greens, pear, fennel, red onion, blue paradise cheese, pecans and creamy lemon-garlic vinaigrette, with slices of grilled chicken on the side. Oh, and the above-mentioned macchiato!

25 N Pinckney St, (608) 251-0500, http://www.letoile-restaurant.com/

Fromagination - a beautifully presented shop that has a "passion for spectacular artisan, specialty and organic cheeses." With the help of the knowledgeable man behind the counter, I sampled and smuggled back 4 cheeses that I don't think usually make it out of state. The descriptions (corrected for spelling) are theirs, but having just had a cheese plate for dinner with a couple of glasses of 2005 Tait Basket-Pressed Shiraz, I wouldn't argue with them:

Dante by WI Sheep Dairy Cooperative - a firm cheese made with sheep's milk from flocks in WI and nearby states; flavour is pleasantly sheepy, buttery and nutty.

Bandaged cheddar by Bleu Mont Diary - a hard British farmhouse-style cheddar, cloth-bound and cave-aged with big flavour and good balance.

Farmstead gouda by Holland's Family Farm - a hard traditional farmstead gouda made by a Dutch cheesemaker with WI cow's milk, with a sweet carmelized flavour (my favourite of the lot, with its crumbly, crystalline texture)

Pleasant ridge reserve by Uplands Cheese -a hard, handmade Alpine-style raw milk cheese, only made when the cows are grazing on pasture, with nutty and subtle floral notes.

12 S Carroll, (608) 255-2430, http://fromagination.com/

Fair Trade Coffeehouse is the perfect place to re-caffeinate, check email and transport yourself back to college. I wasn't able to report back to nodrog on the make and model of their grinder and espresso machine (I have got to remember to get that stuff down), but my latte was damn good!

418 State Street, (608) 268-0477, http://www.fairtradecoffeehouse.com/

Harvest Restaurant, two doors down from L'Etoile, received all the accolades noted above for its "menu enhanced by seasonal locally-grown, and organic ingredients." (See, I'm telling you... this is a foodie town!). The meal easily made up for the so-so service (long waits to order and between courses; a substitution request apparently denied), and were we really in a rush to get back to watch Obama and McCain rail into each other anyway?

Amuse bouche: Little white tureens of gazpacho (with a peppery kick)

Appetizers: Slow Roasted Beets,Toasted Hazelnuts, Ader Kase Reserve Blue Cheese, Hazelnut Vinaigrette ($8) & Salad of Field Greens, Herbs, Winter Vegetables, Sherry Walnut Vinaigrette ($6).

Entrees: A special of braised short ribs served on polenta ($27) & Porcini Salt Rubbed Angus Tenderloin, Spinach, Roasted Fingerling Potatoes (missing but not substituted in my case), Porcini Mustard (36).

The total came to $50/person, each with appetizer, entree and non-alcoholic beverage (they had a reasonably priced and interesting wine list, including nearly a dozen half-bottles, but we had to be up early...).

21 N Pinckney St, (608) 255-6075, http://www.harvest-restaurant.com/

The Gift Shop at the Madison Museum of Contemporary Art (yeah, that's right - I don't actually recommend the museum itself, which should more appropriately be called "two small rooms of mediocre art"). The shop has a remarkable collection of jewelry, handbags, scarves, and crafts, many by Wisconsin artists. Kristin Lewis' Yofi scarves, "triple layer chiffon" are must-haves.

227 State Street, (608) 257-0158, http://www.mmoca.org/

Toronto or Amsterdam?

2008-10-05T11:17:00.000-04:00

We ventured out at 10 pm last night to experience Nuit Blanche, the "all night art thingy" in its third year. After pouring over the online program, printing out our top choices and marking our route on the map, we flashed our TTC day pass and headed down to City Hall for an incredible light and sound show. But it was the aroma that caught my attention, here and everywhere else we wandered...

http://www.scotiabanknuitblanche.ca/home.shtml

High Fidelity

2008-09-16T18:05:00.001-04:00

When you have a winning formula down, why mess with it?

That's how I feel about Le Pain Quotidien, the bakery I first fell in love with on our trips to Brussels. I've since been to outlets in London, NYC and now Toronto, and they all look, feel and taste the same...in a good way. You can always count on chatty diners seated at long communal tables made of weathered wood, artisanal breads, hearty soups and salads, frothy cafe au lait served in bowls without handles, and free wifi.

All summer long as I walked by the Toronto Reference Library, I'd glance with anticipation at the corner building across the street at Yorkville Avenue, with its large sign announcing Le Pain Quotidien's pending arrival. When I poked my head in last week to find it had finally opened, it all felt so familiar, bringing back pleasant memories of afternoons wandering along the Rue des Sablons. Before I knew it, I was sipping an iced coffee ($3) and tucking into a generously sized salad of sweet heirloom tomatoes, tangy goat's milk feta and fresh mint ($15).

I wouldn't change a thing!

http://www.lepainquotidien.com/

http://www.lepainquotidien.ca/

Add it to the List

2008-09-07T08:07:00.000-04:00

I have to admit, Ottawa wasn't on my list of "must visit" cities in Canada. But when an invitation to a meeting there came with all expenses paid, I decided to arrive a day early for sightseeing. I discovered a user-friendly destination with just the right mix of art, culture, food and shopping to pique my interest in returning with nodrog in the spring.

Arriving was a breeze (just under 3 hours, door to door), thanks to clear skies and flights from downtown on Porter Air. With the Canadian taxpayers footing the bill, I didn't have a choice of hotels, but the Sheraton Ottawa turned out to be more than adequate and within walking distance of everywhere I wanted to go:

First stop: ByWard Market, one of Canada's oldest and largest public markets. Easily explored on foot, the market area is about four blocks square and contains a hodge-podge of flower, fruit and vegetable stands, bookstores, boutiques, galleries, restaurants and vendors selling jewelry and souvenirs. http://www.byward-market.com/

Uh oh - hunger pangs strike. Tempted by a sit-down seafood restaurant, I decide on a quickie lunch instead to give me more time to poke around. The Oh-Ya Cafe Plus & Mediterranean Grill in the market building fits the bill with a greek salad, spanakopita, iced tea and great people-watching from my outdoor seat.

Please, God, find me caffeine that's not Starbucks! Ask and you shall receive. The Carisse Studio Cafe at 495 Sussex Street - billed as "Ottawa's only Photography Gallery/Studio & Eurostyle Cafe" serves the real deal. I sip my extra-strength macchiato surrounded by photos of famous Canadian politicians taken by the owner's husband Jean-Marc Carisse. Don't even ask...the only one I recognize is Pierre Trudeau. http://www.carisse.org/

All juiced up, now I'm ready for a whirlwind tour of the National Gallery of Canada, http:///www.gallery.ca. Luckily, I caught one of the last days of The 1930s: The Making of "The New Man." 200 works of art from Europe, Russia and North America help trace the political and artistic consequences of the decade between the stock market crash of October 1929 and the outbreak of World War II in September 1939. I found myself drawn to paintings of Dalí, Picasso, Kandinsky, Ernst and Pollack, perhaps understanding them for the first time thanks to an extremely well curated exhibition and detailed audioguide. But I most enjoyed paintings by Canadian artists I had never encountered before - from Aba Bayefsky, with his haunting paintings of the Bergen-Belsen Concentration Camp upon its liberation by British troops, to Takao Tanabe's dreamy landscapes of British Columbia. You could easily spend a whole day here! Finally, an art museum in this country worth the price of admission! (Don't get me started on Emily Carr and the Vancouver Art Museum...)

With a quick internet search and a desire for something a little out of the ordinary, I found myself having dinner on the back patio at Sweetgrass, Ottawa's first aboriginal cuisine - where summer doesn't end on Labour Day and where a solo diner couldn't ask for better service (or a more adorable waiter). I can't comment on the authenticity of the cuisine, but the food was interesting, delicious and reasonably priced. The Wabash Rillette ($11), came with three oval mounds of rabbit pate sitting alongside a tangy and colourful relish of pickled rhubarb and cherries. The Mariposa Farm Duck Leg ($28), moist and flavoured with citrus and herbs, resembled a confit and sat atop a crunchy stir-fry mixture of wild rice and shredded peppers, onions, bok choy, basil and mushrooms. 108 Murray Street, http://www.sweetgrassbistro.ca/

Time to contribute to the local economy. I hook up with a friend who's in town for the same meeting and we're on a mission: shoes. The Rideau Centre, your basic urban shopping mall, turns out to be well heeled, http://www.rideaucentre.net/. An hour later, we emerge with two pairs each but craving funky boutiques that aren't chain stores. Frou Frou at 11A William Street, totally satisfies. http://www.froufrouboutique.ca/.

We arrive at Murray Street Kitchen Wine & Charcuterie exactly an hour before our reservation, hoping they'll seat us and they can. It's no coincidence that we're next door to Sweetgrass - I scoped the menu out the night before!

We started out with cocktails ($8.50 each): The Q-Cumber (cucumber, watermelon, lime, Hendricks gin, and triple sec) and the Pear-Lip (golden pear, peach vodka, & fresh grapefruit juice with mint). So far, so good! Next up: "2 meats and 3 cheeses for $25", served on a wood cutting board with bread chips, olives, pickles, and three jellies: berry, pepper and pear. The venison-hazelnut terrine, white bean & garlic pate, and soft, hard and blue cheeses came in generous portions and were incredibly tasty. I can't for the life of me recall the names of the cheeses - even with the prompt of the online menu! (Recommendation: send diners out the door with a custom print-out of what they ate).

Moving right along, we shared two small plate salads that complemented each other nicely: The tuna salad ($14) - lightly smoked BC Albacore tuna, flash grilled cherry tomatoes, Ferme Floralpe goats cheese, tempura of Spicolli’s green beans, field cucumber “noodles” fresh marjoram vinaigrette and olives and the beet salad ($9) - roast baby red beets, pickled baby golden beets, fresh herbs, spiced pecans, Brent Halsall’s honey & Monforte sheep’s yogurt. Please open an outpost in Toronto! The meal would have been a steal had we not ordered a bottle of Condundrum from Sonoma Valley at $67 - an astonishing mark-up of 120% over the LCBO asking price! (I had no idea) http://www.murraystreet.ca/

Trip of a Lifetime

2008-08-15T23:39:00.000-04:00

We had an amazing time in Kenya. Some highlights included:

*Getting up close to zebras and wildebeest as we walked through the Loita Hills with a Masai warrior leading the way

*Seeing a little head pop out of the tall grass in the Masai Mara and driving up to find a whole family of lions (male, two females and five little cubs)

*Crossing the crocodile-filled Galana River in barefeet, with a guy carrying a gun at the front of the line and one carrying a spear at the back (and praying they'd have no need to use them)

*Watching hundreds of wildebeest and zebra crossing the Galana River until one of them fell prey to a hungry crocodile and the whole action abruptly stopped

*Swimming in the Indian Ocean off the coast of the island of Lamu

*Meeting so many people who were excited about the possibility of a "Kenyan President" in the US and happy to receive one of the Obama stickers we brought with us!

View pictures from the trip at www.yyzine.org

Second Time's A Charm

2008-05-24T19:11:00.000-04:00

Our second trip to Montréal - this time with friends visiting from Brazil - revealed many new charms (see the top 10 list from our first visit at http://yyzine.blogspot.com/2007/10/mad-about-montral.html).

Not surprisingly, food was once again a highlight of the trip:

La Brioche Lyonnaise, 1593 Saint-Denis, http://www.labriochelyonnaise.com/ - this calm oasis in the bustling Quartier Latin, a few steps below street level, serves delicious soups, salads, paninis, quiches and crepes in generous portions. Creamy tomato soup and a grilled chicken salad, ringed with cucumbers, tomatoes and olives and topped with a lemon vinaigrette, more than satisfied my craving for a bite to eat for lunch. A double latte proved essential to an afternoon of sightseeing in Vieux-Montréal. (about $15 per person).

We had dinner our first night at La Colombe, one of the many delightful "BYOB" bistros that make eating in this city affordable and fun. Located along restaurant row on Rue Duluth Est (554 to be exact), this cozy spot offered a $42 table d'hote with a choice of seven entrees that all sounded incredible. After a creamy vegetable "soupe du jour" and a terrine of deer with cranberries, we quickly discovered that the sauces are what distinguish this kitchen. A slightly tart raspberry vinegar sauce was a perfect match for my tender filet of lamb. A delicious wild mushroom sauce accompanied the veal chop. The fig and port glaze that enricled the duck breast was pleasantly sticky and sweet. Only the pork filet's cloying pineapple and honey sauce failed to win our affection. We toasted Colin in absentia for the bottle of wine we packed in our suitcase and now filled our glasses: the 2003 Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, rated a perfect score by Robert Parker and rated #2 wine of the year in 2006 by the Wine Spectator The wine was exceptional, with its deep plum nose, tastes of blackberry and chocolate, and long finish. The Osoyoos-Larose bordeaux blend, the result of a joint venture between Vincor Canada and Bordeaux’s Groupe Taillan, was too tannic but opened up as the evening went on and proved quite drinkable. We were divided on which dessert to try, with half ordering the panna cotta with vanilla and passion fruit, and half asserting that chocolate, in the form of a marquise au chocolat, is the only legitimate way to end a meal.

Lunch on our second day was an impromptu picnic courtesy of the vendors at the Atwater Market (http://www.wizgoboutique.com/WWP_Atwater/) The spread included: Three pates - pheasant with raisins, duck with calvados, and ostrich with pistachios. Four cheeses - one mild blue, one medium blue, and two soft runny varieties. Salami with mustard seeds. Two loaves of bread and a box of whole wheat A medley of olives, roasted red peppers, sundried tomatoes, grilled artichokes and marinated mushrooms. A fruit potpourri - strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries and cherries. A screw-top bottle of cheap white wine, hard cider, and Perrier. And tiny squares of caramel with fleur de sel from Chocolates Genevieve Grandbois - enough for one for each of us! After a feast like that, it's a good thing our dinner reservations weren't until 9:30 that night...

We arrived at Joe Beef (2491 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest, http://www.joebeef.ca/) about 45 minutes early, intending to have a drink first at the McKiernan wine bar next door (2485). With the wine bar closed for a private party, we found the Liverpool House (2501) a suitable substitute. Three black cherry bellinis, champage and a Bloody Mary later, after a snafu that left us waiting thirty minutes after our reservation time for a table, we found ourselves sitting around a booth at Joe Beef, straining our eyes to see the handwritten menu on the chalkboard before us. My lobster bisque had chunks of seafood swimming in a delicious broth that packed a delayed and delightful pepper punch. Four of the five of us ordered the braised lamb shank to share, prepared just as I like it, tender meat falling gently from the bone. A side order of frites - brown and crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, and sprinkled with salt, rosemary and garlic - were addictive.

On our third day, we found ourselves at Jean-Talon Market (http://www.wizgoboutique.com/WWP_JeanTalon/) just in time for lunch. We got revved up on espresso macchiatos at Brûlerie aux quatre vents and then went carb-crazy with two nutella crêpes at Crêperie du Marche (one with strawberry, the other banana) and crunchy frites from Frites Alor, served in a paper cone with three dipping sauces: Américaine (mayo, paprika, garlic, shallots, onions, and harissa); Pistou rosé (mayo, basilic, dried tomatoes, pine nuts, and garlic) and my personal favourite, Limette (mayo, lime, and black pepper). A few sample slices of juicy nectarines and peaches on our way out, and it was nap time!

We perhaps saved our best meal for last at Au Pied de Cochon (526 rue Duluth Est, http://www.restaurantaupieddecochon.ca/) Nodrog hit the nail on the head when he compared the servers here to the glassblowers at Chihuly's studio. There's the physical comparison (these guys are cute and buff!) but more importantly the reverence and respect for the chef and the food. Our questions were answered in loving detail, especially our request for a run-down of the 8 foie gras choices. We settled on the foie gras poutine (a PDC classic, at left) and the Ploque a Champlain, an incredibly rich combination that includes the star ingredient atop a blini with egg, bacon and maple syrup. In a remarkable show of restraint that paid off by leaving us satisfied but not stuffed, we split everything among the 4 of us: two blue cheese, apple and endive salads ($8.50 each), the two foie gras dishes ($23 and $25), the duck in a can ($36), the confit lamb shank ($26), and Pudding Chômeur ($7), a gooey sweet bread pudding with maple syrup. Cardiology consult, please!

As for sightseeing, we discovered a few more ways to entertain ourselves during the day:

*Rent bikes and take a ride to the top of Mont Royal for a panoramic view of the city

*Take a leisurely stroll around the Botanical Gardens

*Window shop along Saint-Denis

Our budget hotel, Auberge Le jardin d'Antoine, was ideally situated in the heart of the Quartier Latin, at 2024 rue Saint-Denis (http://www.hotel-jardin-antoine.qc.ca/). The $118 a night rate ($108 with a CAA/AAA membership card) included a carb-heavy breakfast including fresh St. Viateur bagels and pretty decent coffee. Next time, I'd splurge for a larger room, though. It was pretty cramped for two, especially in the bathroom!

More Than You'd Expect, Part II

2008-05-11T12:23:00.000-04:00

In my second installment on Milwaukee after another visit there this weekend, I must say the city continues to impress.

http://yyzine.blogspot.com/2007/12/more-than-youd-expect.html

I discovered a few new spots in the Third Ward. After getting caffeinated at Alterra and contributing to the local economy next door at the Barclay Gallery (sadly, they're having a 50% going out of business sale at the moment), I wandered a bit north to check out the Milwaukee Public Market at 400 N. Water Street. The Market has a little something for everyone, with shops for artisanal bread, fresh roasted coffee, flowers, cheese, sausages, fruits & vegetables, fish, spices, and specialty foods from Mexico and the Mediterranean. I did a little damage at Sheridan's Finest Wines & Generous Spirits (2 bottles of Oregon pinot noir, if you must know...) http://www.milwaukeepublicmarket.org/

Around the corner at 316 N. Milwaukee Street, the Coquette Cafe proved a delightful spot for dinner. The French onion soup with melted gruyere cheese satisfied my craving for comfort food ($5.75). Field greens with Dijon vinaigrette ($5.50) was a light and simple palate cleanser before tucking into the pan-seared wild halibut with arugula, black olives, toasted walnut salad and grapefruit vinaigrette ($19.95). I must admit I was a bit skeptical about ordering fish in one of the country's carnivore capitals, but it was served blissfully medium-rare.

On our last night, we walked from our downtown hotel to the waterfront to admire the scenic views and the Santiago Calatrava-designed Milwaukee Art Museum. Unable to figure out how to crash the private party going on inside, we took to the streets in search of a place for dinner and stumbled upon Alem Ethiopian Village at 307 E. Wisconsin Avenue. Open just 4 months, the city's 2nd Ethiopian restaurant serves up the usual fare of tibs (meat cubes sauteed in various sauces) and wots (stews) in generous portion sizes. I ordered the tibs sampler for one ($17.75) and had to check the bill to make sure they hadn't brought me the version for 2 my mistake!

As I browsed the news stand in the airport waiting for my flight home, I noticed a cover story on the city's 25 best restaurants in this month's issue of Milwaukee Magazine. I bought a copy and tucked it into my bag...it'll come in handy for my next trip!

Rock 'n Roll

2008-05-08T11:08:00.001-04:00

In an impressive display of brand loyalty, RT ate at Shizen Sushi three times during our 4-day stay in Victoria, BC. Apparently, the Highlander Roll has addictive qualities. Not to be seen on the menu and ordered only by regulars in hushed tones, the roll is truly one-of-a-kind (just try googling it): Lining the center: tempura shrimp, avocado and ginger. On the outside: a wrapping of thinly sliced rare beef, topped with hoisin, tabasco sauce, honey and chopped spring onion. In Toronto I eat sushi once a week at least and have never had anything like it. Spicy and sweet...I'm thinking beer sales go through the roof on this one! Also not to be missed: the asparagus tempura roll.

Shizen Sushi

1706 Government St, Victoria, BC

http://www.shizensushi.ca/

Leslieville Hotspot

2008-02-24T10:00:00.000-05:00

Nothing special outside - feeding frenzy inside

Be prepared to shout when you have dinner at Tomi-Kro on a Saturday night. When the place is packed, the servers are swirling and the percussion is pumping, it can be awfully loud! But once the food starts to arrive and you settle in for some serious eating, you quickly realize why this place is on fire: the kitchen knows what it's doing!

As four adventurous eaters with no food allergies or issues, we ordered a range of dishes to share:

*Peppercorn teriyaki striploin with tempura onion frittes (the peppery meat was seared and served in thin strips alongside a mount of frittes that should also be a side order option on their own...)

*Miami ribs with a soy, honey and ginger-chili glaze (the hit of the evening, the meat was "fall off the bone" tender and the sticky glaze nailed the right balance of hot and sweet).

*Roasted beets with chevre, balsamic vinegar and pistachio (an homage to Jean-Georges's much-loved goat cheese royale, roasted beet marmalade and toasted crushed pistachios?)

*Butter chicken with raita and chili chick peas (the chicken was overdone a tad and could have used a bit more sauce...)

*Sweet chili shrimp, with roasted pineapple and rice noodles (a

*Edamame, with butter and sea salt (served already peeled, this was the one dish we could have been fine without)

*Tempura lobster maki balls (another hit, these perfectly round balls of juicy lobster and rice are best dipped in soy sauce and eaten right away while they're hot and crunchy!).

*Asian greenery with vegetarian oyster sauce (sounds bland but they were an ideal match for the bold, flavour-forward dishes we ordered).

Note to foie gras lovers: there were several options on the menu we didn't end up ordering but which looked pretty amazing:

*Foie gras creme brulee with lingone berry jam and red onion pickle

*Seared scallops with wilted spinach and mushroom foie gras jus

It would easy to simply characterize Tomi-Kro as a pan-Asian or fusion tapas joint, but those wouldn't do the menu and its execution justice. Rest your voice and come ready for a great meal inspired by the cuisines of Japan, China, India, Thailand, Greece, France and Italy.

$260 for four, including a bottle of wine, two scotches and two decaf espressos
Tomi-Kro
1214 Queen East @ Leslie St.

Tel. 416-463-6677

Crystal as Restaurant? Thumbs Up!

2008-02-22T23:35:00.001-05:00

As Gallery Space? Not So Much...

Walking up Bloor to the Royal Ontario Museum this evening, the Michael Lee-Chin crystal was an impressive sight. Without a doubt the best time to see it: gleaming in the moon-lit sky.

Friday evenings are a hoot at the ROM. Open til 9:30 pm with half-price tickets, the place is abuzz with families of toddlers greeting dinosaurs with glee, bands of self-obsessed tweens, and young couples smooching in the dark corners of the crystal. Not a bad spot for illicit behaviour - but possibly one of the worst gallery spaces I've ever seen. The harsh angles make crazy shaped corners that serve no functional purpose. Vertical display cases clash with the triangular walls, distracting from what is an impressive collection. Even more disappointing - considering the serious financial investment backing it up - are the many dings and cracks and amateur painting evident on second glance. If I were a family member of any of the donors who's names appear on the gallery walls, I'd demand a refund or a serious re-design!

Enough said.

c5, on the other hand - the restaurant on the top floor of the crystal - couldn't have found a more perfect home. With the lights twinkling from nearby buildings casting a romantic glow on the dining room, we took our seats and settled in for the 2-hour extravaganza.

Our main purpose in heading to the ROM was to sample and vote on the 3 contenders for c5's signature cocktail, the ROMtini - so we began with a flight of "weeny-tinis." Each had a distinctive ingredient added to the Grey Goose vodka: vanilla, hypnotique (a berry liquer), and prosecco. The first was ruled out right away because of it's medicinal after-taste. I voted for #2 (it's Cosmo-like flavour and blue hue won me over) and nodrog went with #3. The result of the vote will be announced on February 29th!
http://www.rom.on.ca/news/releases/public.php?mediakey=m3y1f0dm7g

An amuse-bouche of perfectly grilled squid accompanied by "yucca charcoal" arrived as we sipped our cocktails. I'm not sure how the yucca was prepared but its smoky flavour made the dish a memorable one.

We had no trouble deciding what to order - there were a number of inviting choices, but several stood out as "no brainers":

*For me: The $65 prix-fixe bar menu (a new offering at the ROM): braised beef ribs with foie gras and wild mushroom tartlet, seared duck in a port reduction with barley and a dessert I'll describe below. A "glass and a half" of shiraz complemented both dishes well (an interesting wine menu option I've never seen before).

*For nodrog: Quail and foie gras, beef and sweetbreads (and half of my dessert!), accompanied by a "glass and a half" of gewurtz and shiraz.

Everything came beautifully presented and skillfully prepared, although the portion sizes were anemic for the prices ($25-40/dish). We both agreed the highlight of the meal was the sweetbreads with their nutty flavour and cracklin' texture. Especially for me, who never orders them and mistakenly thought I wouldn't like them.

The dessert - a light way to end the meal - was creatively laid out on a huge white plate: dollops of fluffy goat cheese cheesecake, each speared with a ginger snap (were they really shaped like dinos or were we just drunk?), with a small bowl of grape granite.

Our only complaint about c5: the harsh lighting of the open kitchen means that half the dining room is way too bright (we asked to be re-seated to the other half because of it). A frosted glass enclosure would still allow diners to view the kitchen activities.

ROM members note: don't forget to ask for your 10% member discount like we almost did!

$230 for two, including about $80 for alchohol (what can I say? it was a stressful week)
Our ROM member discount saved us 20 bucks
c5 at the ROM
http://www.rom.on.ca/dining_shopping/dining/crystal5.php

Bulldog Barista is Anything But

2008-02-20T18:09:00.001-05:00

Contrary to what you might think, wikipedia indicates that "the temperament of the Bulldog is generally docile, friendly and gregarious."

Not judging by the behaviour of the Bulldog Coffee barista on the morning of our visit!

*Our friendly banter while ordering was greeted with a scowl.

*When we asked what the place looked like before a major make-over, he mumbled, "You'll have to watch the [TV] show to find out."

*When my friend switched the chairs around to get one with a cushion, the barista barked at him even after explaining he had a bad back. "This place is my home," he growled.

*As we got up to leave, we thanked him for the excellent espresso and when my friend tried to shake his hand, he pulled back and said "After years in the food service business, I never shake a customer's hand."

*As we headed out, his angry stare revealed his displeasure with the new seating arrangement, so we quickly moved the chairs back to their original location before zipping out the door.

The saddest part about it all? My double macchiato was the best I've had yet in Toronto! Smooth, smoky, chocolatey and delicious on its own - no sweetener needed. Will I go back? Probably - but next time, I'll order it to go!

Bulldog Coffee
89 Granby Street
http://www.bulldogtoronto.com/home.htm

The Chocolate Messenger

2008-01-22T19:09:00.000-05:00

Yes, that's right - "same day delivery in GTA (if ordered before noon)."

And we're talking chocolate that rivals the quality at SOMA, which for many involves a schlep to the Distillery District. The truffle flavours are delicious (not too sweet) and the colours whimsical. My personal favourites are pistachio and strawberry:

Chocoholics rejoice!

1645 Bayview Avenue (south of Eglinton at Fleming)
Tel:(416) 488 1414
http://www.chocolatemessenger.com/

Mad Search for Berbere

2008-01-20T14:55:00.000-05:00

It seemed easy enough to find berbere, the essential spice for our Ethiopian dinner. I'd checked out the Ethiopian Spice Market in Kensington Market in preparation for just such an occasion, delighted to find not only berbere but many of the other ingredients we'd need (turmeric, cardamom, freshly made injera). But alas, on the day I actually needed it, they were sold out. The reason, I was told? An unexpected boost in sales since the last shipment arrived. Apparently they hadn't calculated that with the popularity of Ethiopian food, non-Africans like nodrog would try to make it at home.

What to do?

I quickly moved into "problem solving" mode and started dialing Ethiopian restaurants. "Do you have any berbere?" I asked. Would you sell some to me?" Success on the first try - the woman who answered the phone at Dukem told me she'd set some aside and I could pick it up that evening.

When I walked into the restaurant, I discovered a candle-lit oasis from the hustle and bustle of the Danforth. The woman was nowhere to be found, but her husband seemed familiar with my request and told me he'd sell me some. It felt like a clandestine drug deal, as he handed over a plastic baggy with the bright red powder and I handed over my $10. Within seconds, I was out the door, the goods stashed in my handbag, and boarding the TTC at Donlands.

It all seemed to have gone off without hitch - until nodrog tested a dish with the stuff. "It's been cut with too much salt," he exclaimed, as he sampled a sauce that looked and smelled just right but was way too salty to eat. Back to square one - what to do now?

Well, it turns out that the Ethiopian Spice Market isn't the only place to buy berbere in Kensington Market. Just around the corner, I found dozens of packets of the stuff at the House of Spice...

Crisis averted!

"Can't Get a Meal Like this in a Restaurant"...

2008-01-17T19:02:00.001-05:00

...Dad would say looking at the home-cooked meal set across our dining room table. He was probably right, considering it was pretty much a suburban wasteland for eating out where we grew up!

Fast forward to my life now in Toronto, as food-obsessed a city as I've ever eaten in (a list that includes NYC, San Francisco, Sydney, Barcelona, Paris, Lyon, Bologna...) and his remark seems rather naive. Well, that is until Rob and nodrog go at it in the kitchen...

The purported premise of the evening was "a celebration of our wives" which I'm not sure I deserved but I happily played along as if I did! Weeks in the planning and days in the making, it was truly a labour of love that paid off beautifully in an homage to Jean-George and Thomas Keller. When you tally up the number of bottles of wine we went through, you'll see there's no way I could have recounted each dish here were it not for the printed menu we were given to take home as a souvenir! Following in the tradition started by Craig Claiborne, we signed each other's menus with reflections on the dinner. Marg summed it up best when she wrote, "I'm thinking that the chefs need to give up their day jobs."

Smoked wild salmon with creme frache and caviar (a tiny wedge of lemon burst onto the scene as a surprise ingredient - the first hint of the whimsical delights to come) & Louis Rodere Brut 2000.

Foie gras on brioche with roasted strawberry and balsamic fig glaze(blow-torching the glaze on top into a brulee was a genius maneuver!) & Chateau d'Yquem, 1983 (yeah, you read that right...all I can say is that urologists have way more grateful and gift-giving patients than critical care docs do)
Pan-seared wild Alaskan black cod in Asian-style consomme (the smooth & succulent fish swimming in crystal clear broth made in a most unconvential manner: http://www.nytimes.com/2007/09/05/dining/05curi.html?emc=eta1) & Zind-Humbrecht, Pinot Gris, 2005 (a pleasant budget surprise from the LCBO)
Braised lamb shank served with baby spinach and cannellini bean puree with roasted garlic and black truffle (savouring every bite, my mind wanders...how can lamb possibly be this tender? how can I rent a villa in Italy during truffle season and write it off as a business expense?) & Chateau Margaux, 1983 (ditto my comment above about urologists...tonight's wine pairing is just over the top!)

Goat cheese panna cotta with roasted beet marmalade and pistachios (served in a glass in horizontal layers, one spoonful down and up reveals a heavenly mix of flavours and textures - how does nodrog do it without a recipe, relying only on a "taste memory"?).

Coffee and assorted SOMA chocolates (because it's not dessert without chocolate).

And yes, even the new puppy is pampered tonight. For Miles, a course of Purina Pro-Plan Kibble paired with the finest tap water in the GTA, vintage 2008!

More Than You'd Expect

2007-12-23T13:47:00.000-05:00

Milwaukee is more than you'd expect for a Midwestern U.S. city not commonly considered a tourist destination. With a few hours to spare while visiting on a business trip last week, I made some pleasant discoveries:

I stayed downtown at the boutique Hotel Metro, with its art deco-inspired design and all-suite rooms with two flat-screen TVs, huge sunken tub and Aveda amenities. Be forewarned, though: a number of the rooms face a parking lot that has annoying bright lights shining and a series of loud noises (cars honking, trash pick-up) all night long...

http://hotelmetro.com/

The city's revitalized historic turn-of-the-century warehouse and manufacturing district known as the Third Ward is buzzing with coffee shops, galleries and restaurants. http://www.historicthirdward.org/

Thankfully, the coffee craze has hit Milwaukee and it's more than Starbucks! Alterra Coffee Company is a specialty coffee roaster known for its commitment to social and environmental responsibility and its practice of sourcing specialty coffees via direct relationships with growers. Their Third Ward location at 1st and Pittsburgh is a cozy spot to hang out. My machiatto lived up to their espresso roast's description as "thick, lasting, reddish-brown crema; full, caramel-toned, mouth-coating body; soft, berry-sweet acidity; and flavors like chocolate, roasted nuts..."

http://www.alterracoffee.com/ and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alterra_Coffee_Roasters

Barclay Gallery, around the corner from Alterra, is a combination fine craft gallery and restaurant. The cafe's airy, light-filled room was packed when I stopped by at 1 pm. Although I resisted the tempation to grab a bite, I found myself drawn to the handmade watches by Uruguayan artist Milieris. Unable to pick between two options, what would you have done?

http://barclaygalleryonline.com/ and http://www.watchcraft.com/Bio.htm

The Milwaukee Art Museum is a must-see for its architecture alone. The first Santiago Calatrava-designed building in the United States, the museum features a 90-foot high glass-walled reception hall enclosed by the Burke Brise Soleil, a sunscreen that can be raised or lowered creating a unique moving sculpture. I have to admit, I didn't actually check out the collection... http://www.mam.org/

I had a delicious meal at Bacchus, located in an historic apartment building about a 15 minute walk from the hotel: a creamy lobster bisque skillfully poured over lobster chunks centered at the bottom of the bowl, followed by red wine braised beef shortibs with sweet potato puree and wilted brussel sprout leaves. But it's the wine list that impressed me most - the first I've seen with a table of contents! http://www.bacchusmke.com/

The Vintage Wine Shop at 632 E. Ogden Ave happily fulfilled my search for a couple of bottles of interesting Oregon pinot noirs and German rieslings not readily available in Toronto. (414) 220-4217.

Last but not least, our pleasant cab driver Omar was at the ready whenever we needed a ride from place to place. His cellphone number is 502-533-6700.

Pub Grub That Comforts Stomach & Soul

2007-12-16T13:15:00.000-05:00

We ventured out in the snow last night to a surprise birthday party on Queen West. Waiting in the cold for the streetcar, it was an evening made for cuddling under blankets at home in front of a fire. Dinner at Mitzi's Sister turned out to be a satisfying substitute - comfort food, high-end pub grub, cozy bar and neighborhood hang-out all rolled into one.

We started out with a bowl of the soup of the day, cauliflower with asiago ($4.95). Creamy and cheesy with bits of bacon strewn about, our host summed it up best with "by the time you reached the bottom of the bowl, the bacon had infused the soup with a delightful smoky flavour." Oven roasted chicken wings were substantial and meaty, a welcome change from the typical anemic version drowned in batter and fried (1 pound for $9.95). My mouth was on fire from the hot sauce on the side, but nothing a cold hard cider on tap couldn't cure ($3). Sweet potatoes made a surprise appearance in the basket of twisted sister fries served with zesty jalapeno mayo ($5.25). Onion rings were positively addictive! The requisite blowing out of candles took place atop luscious chocolate and vanilla cakes from the Sweet Tooth Pastry Shop on the Danforth.
(http://www.torontolife.com/guide/food/bakers/sweet-tooth-pastry-shop/)

The friendly atmosphere turned a gathering for a friend's birthday into a real party. Two tables set off from the rest of the crowd let us freely mingle, toot horns and break out in song, seemingly without bothering anyone! We barely noticed the gust of wind and snow on our way out onto the street, our needs for nourishment from good food and friendship completely met.

1554 Queen Street West (between Landsowne and Sorauren)
http://www.mitzissister.com/

The Height of High-End Comfort Food

2007-11-24T12:32:00.001-05:00

Thanks to Honey, the consummate host and tour guide, our visits to LA are always a foodie whirlwind! The stand-out meal on this trip was dinner at Craft, an outpost of Tom Colicchio's New York City-based "vision of food heaven." (According to the NY Times review when it opened in 2001 - and an apt description of our experience as well!). http://www.craftrestaurant.com/craft_losangeles_style.html

As we obsessed over every dish on the menu, we quickly agreed that sharing was the only way to go and ordered these:

Pork Belly & Madras Curry
Duck Egg, Duck Ham & Spiced Waffle
Braised Beef Cheeks
Wild Striped Bass, Cardoon & Olive
Brussels Sprouts & Smoked Bacon
Assorted mushrooms (Hen of the Woods, Chanterelles, Baby Shiitakes and Trompette Royales)
Chard gratin

Nodrog picked the perfect California wine: A 2005 Kunin Pape Star blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. "Cherries and cassis on the nose, with some smoke/spice notes. High-toned red fruits and spices on palate, with an underlying earthy note. Bright acidity and light tannins. Finishes cleanly and with finesse." http://www.kuninwines.com/

The verdict: the height of high-end comfort food, beautifully prepared and presented.

This Brunch Spot is A-OK

2007-11-19T09:09:00.001-05:00

We entered Okay Okay Diner in search of the consummate brunch spot in Leslieville. At first glance, it certainly seemed to have a number of the requisite ingredients: red leather booths, counter and stools, slightly greasy, slightly smoky smell emanating from the kitchen. We plunked ourselves down at a booth, ordered double lattes and scanned the menu. What to choose: granola and yogurt? buttermilk pancakes? thick slice french toast? the "scramble of the day" with smoked salmon and creme fraiche? We both honed in on the egg burrito, a tortilla filled with fluffy scrambled eggs, grilled peppers, onions and avocado, topped with salsa and sour cream. De-lish! I think our search is over.

Okay Okay

1128 Queen St. East
416-461-2988

Paradisappointment

2007-10-31T23:16:00.000-04:00

The evening started out with such great promise, as we entered Le Paradis expecting an authentic French bistro experience. The main room had the look down, with its long wood bar, butcher-paper tablecloths and brightly colored posters. With Pastis as the gold standard for the genre in Toronto (not to even mention Au Pied du Cochon in Montréal and Le Crémant in Seattle), I thought to myself: the competition is going to be stiff.

As we were whisked into an adjoining space that had the ambiance of an institutional dining room, my hopes began to fade. The prices were unexpectedly reasonable, the waitstaff competent and the service efficient. The problem was the food. The meal started on an upbeat note with the paté but quickly devolved into clichés that lacked any evidence of passion or inventiveness - most notably, the braised lamb shank, which arrived lukewarm and bland, and the frites which bordered on fast-food taste and quality.

Next time I'll bypass Le Paradis.

166 Bedford Road
http://www.leparadis.com/

Silver Spoon Turns to Gold

2007-10-20T22:38:00.001-04:00

We had heard a bit of a build-up about the Silver Spoon (fresh ingredients, a foodie's delight, good value), but nothing prepared us for the actual experience. And was it an experience!

From the moment you walk into the intimate dining room, there's a calm that overtakes you and you sit down ready to be cared for. The server welcomes you and after you have a chance to settle in, an amuse-bouche served on chinese soup spoons - two swirls, one red (red pepper), one white (chick pea) - tempts your palate as it should. A simple paper menu is set in front of you and the adventure begins.

Normally I have control issues over menus - everything we order must be determined by mutual consent. But tonight, overtaken by the atmosphere and overwhelmed by the choices, I sit back and sigh, "Order for both of us, would you dear?"

As we sip our gewurztraminer, our firsts arrive, starting with an appetizer of rye and maple cured salmon with vanilla mayonnaise and grapefruit pieces. From my first bite, I know the watch words for the evening are texture, flavor, and inspired combinations. The maple and vanilla are a match made in heaven. The next dish, ordered from the "other lovely things" category on the menu, was heaven on a plate. Foie-gras semi-freddo rolled in a walnut praline, with cured duck breast proscuitto, fig jam, truffle puree and toast. The foie-gras was whipped into a frenzy; smeared onto the other ingredients, the sweetness of the dish came close to qualifying as a dessert! I nearly overlooked the truffle puree sitting off to the side on its own little plate - but it paid off as I savored a bolus of intense flavor atop my last dollop of foie-gras.

Our entrees were no less spectacular. Seared scallops atop braised fennel and leek with a coconut milk, lemongrass infused tomato puree and jicama salad, came laid out on a long skinny plate; I would start on the left with a scallop, use my fork to glide it across the coconut milk to the jicama and have all of the flavors released in one bite. The juniper berry infused crispy duck confit was a mascot for the slow food movement and a perfect foil for the whimsical lychee and blueberry jus served with crusted yams. And yes, we are told after we wonder aloud, the demi-glace is house-made from scratch.

When it came to dessert, I could tell nodrog was not himself tonight either. Dessert is defined by having chocolate as the star ingredient. What, we weren't ordering the chocolate 4 ways? No, we simply had to have the citrus-vanilla goat's cheese-stuffed french toast. Equally at home on a brunch menu, this dish was a perfect pairing of tart and sweet, with what I'm guessing was homebaked brioche.

Even as I write this several days after the fact, I can taste each dish all over again. I should also mention our server, who was quite charming, attentive and interesting and not intrusive in any way.

Advice for next time: Bring friends and sample even more delights!

PS - for you chocoholics out there who simply had to know the 4 ways:
*Chocolate sorbet with chocolate brownie
*Chocolate cheescake with white chocolate and pistachio sauce
*Warm flourless chocolate cake with creme anglaise and chocolate sauce
*Chocolate creme brulee

Dinner for two with wine: $185
Silver Spoon
390 Roncesvalles
416-516-8112
http://www.silverspoon.ca/

Mad About Montréal

2007-10-04T14:41:00.001-04:00

And now for the top ten list (in chronological order) from our first weekend jaunt to Montréal. Drum roll please.

1 - Save the March 2006 issue of Gourmet magazine on "North America's Most European City", read it over and over again obsessively, and bring it with you in lieu of a guide book

2 - Fly Porter Airlines from the downtown airport and avoid the insanity of Pearson. http://www.flyporter.com/

3 - Rent bikes in Old Montréal and ride along the Lachine Canal to the Marché Atwater. http://www.pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/qc/canallachine/index_e.asp

4 - Buy fresh-baked sesame seed bagels at St.-Viateur Bagel Shop and enjoy them over a double espresso at Café Olimpico down the street. http://www.stviateurbagel.com/

5 - Sample the sights, tastes and smells of two of the city's amazing markets on your bike ride through town: Marché Atwater and Marché Jean-Talon. http://www.marchespublics-mtl.com/

6 - Spend a few hours admiring the collection at the Musée d'art contemporain de Montréal. http://www.macm.org/

7 - Start an amazing meal at at Au Pied du Cochon with the Apple Foie Gras (one of 10 foie gras appetizer choices; a sinful slice atop a tarte tatin). http://www.restaurantaupieddecochon.ca/

8 - Repeat #4, but with a Chocolate Babka chaser from Cheskie Heimishe Bakery

9 - Pretend you're back in college as you wander aimlessly around the campus of McGill. http://www.mcgill.ca/

10 - Exhausted from a whirlwind weekend, ride the subway back to your hotel in the Old Town before cabbing it to the airport for your flight home. http://www.stm.info/English/metro/a-mapmet.htm,
http://www.hotelxixsiecle.com/

Caffeine on Queen, Part II

2007-09-29T01:36:00.001-04:00

In my continuing quest for the best coffee in Toronto, or maybe I should say the most Seattle-like coffee experience in Toronto, the current title-holder is Dark Horse. They have all the right ingredients:

*Cute, slightly geeky baristas who perk up at the opportunity to muse aloud about the best beans (Dark City, Intelligentsia, 49th Parallel?), are more than happy to gossip about the latest addition to the local independent coffee scene (Manic Coffee) and only have good things to say about the owner (Mike Lee);

*A slightly hip, slightly irreverent atmosphere, clean but not immaculate, with newspapers strewn about;

*A chrome, high-end espresso machine (ok, I can't remember which brand, not being a true geek myself);

*Simple white cups and saucers; and

*A perfectly pulled espresso, with a thick crema and a slightly chocolately, slightly sweet flavor

Yeah, I'd say they have it down.

Pomegranate

2007-09-23T10:59:00.000-04:00

The sweet crunchy pomegranate makes a lovely theme for a crisp fall evening out. We started out with pom kirs at our place (champagne with Pama pomegranate liqueur), followed by an impromptu espresso at Manic Cafe (see: http://yyzine.blogspot.com/2007/09/manic-mania.html) and dinner next door at Pomegranate, a restaurant accurately described on their website as a cozy, unpretentious spot for reasonably priced Persian specialties. What their description fails to convey, however, is how innovative and delicious the food is!

What impressed me most was the richness of the textures and flavors, aided by braising and the judicious use of herbs, dried fruits, nuts and pom syrup. For appetizers, we had the spinach borani ($3.75), a dip of sautéed spinach, garlic and creamy yogurt and zeitoon parvardeh ($2.95), a tapenade of green olives marinated in a pomegranate walnut sauce with a generous amount of fresh garlic, both served with toasted pita bread. We probably could have done fine with three entrees for four people, but when we couldn't narrow down our top 4 choices, we just ordered them all!

*Qeymeh ($10.95) a tomato-based tangy stew of yellow split peas, lamb chunks and dried lime topped with cinnamon
*Adas Polo ($8.50) lentils, dates and raisins blended into a saffron basmati rice topped with crispy onion, lamb shank and barberries (an important ingredient in Persian cooking - see: http://www.guardian.co.uk/weekend/story/0,3605,1512761,00.html)
*Morasa Polo ($14.95), slivers of seville orange peel, almond and pistachio with diced carrots and barberries blended in saffron basmati rice served with a braised lamb shank, creamy yogurt and salad.
*Fesenjaan ($13.95), a classic Persian stew of boneless chicken breast, ground walnut and pomegranate syrup.

An Australian Shiraz, picked from the reasonably priced wine list ($17-$40), was a perfect match.

Pomegranate
420 College Street
416-921-7557
http://pomegranaterestaurant.ca/

Manic Mania

2007-09-22T15:37:00.001-04:00

There we were, innocently walking along College Street near Bathurst, when out of the corner of my eye I saw "Intelligentsia" peering from a storefront window. A Pavlovian reaction ensued: heart racing, mouth watering, I looked up to see a sign for Manic Coffee. Outfitted with a high-end Synesso espresso machine and a six foot shelf lined with bags of beans from Chicago-based Intelligentsia Coffee, I knew I had entered nirvana. What could make the experience even grander? It was opening night and drinks were on the house!

My machiatto was good, but only alluded to the chocolately sweet and nutty taste I remember. It was technically prepared well, including a perfectly formed flower in the foam, but something was missing... I'm chalking it up to opening night obsession with form over substance and look forward to returning in a few weeks.

426 College Street, (416) 966-3888
http://www.maniccoffee.com/

http://www.intelligentsiacoffee.com/

http://www.synesso.com/

My Search is Over

2007-09-18T18:01:00.000-04:00

I've been searching for "Katmandu rich sauce" since we left Washington DC in 1991. Katmandu, a Nepalese and Indian restaurant near Dupont Circle was a favorite, with its tender chicken simmered and served in a rich, creamy tomato curry the color of burnt orange. I always wondered what secret ingredient led to its addictive quality.

My search is finally over. Katmandu rich sauce has reappeared as Rangoli's butter chicken and the secret ingredient turns out to be fenugreek. I couldn't help myself - two trips to the "all you can eat" buffet for lunch, and a take-out order later in the week for dinner. But that's not all. The menu at Rangoli goes beyond the usual suspects of masalas, vindaloos and biryanis. We tried mushroom kaju mutter, for example, a surprising combination of mushrooms, fresh green peas and cashew nuts in a fragrant sauce of tomatoes, garlic and toasted coriander seeds. Lamb simmered in Kashmiri-spiced almond and yogurt sauce made for a delicious roganjosh.

Our piping hot take-out order for two, complete with pappadum and little containers of chutney and raita, came to about $45 - with enough left over for my lunch the next day!

Rangoli, 1392 Yonge Street, south of St. Clair, 416-967-4111

www.rangolirestaurant.ca

Hummus on Harbord

2007-09-02T10:11:00.000-04:00

Don't let a nearly empty dining room at 93 Harbord tempt you to reconsider your choice for the evening and pick from one of the many nearby Italian joints instead. Although it may not be "hot" at the moment, chef/owner Isam Kaisi's reasonably priced and interesting North African and Middle Eastern dishes and friendly service make it a worthwhile stop.

Our appetizers were delicious: The grilled octopus was stuffed with a tasty mixture of peppers and feta. The hummus was a creamy version drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice that added a welcome tang. The accompanying pita bread was fresh and served warm. Our main courses were even better: braised lamb shank served with a dollop of minted yogurt and couscous-crusted red snapper topped with matchstick slices of mango and chili-lime butter. We ordered a bottle of red wine at first and then ran back to the waiter to switch to a bottle of cava which turned out to be a wise choice. The baklava was tempting but pistachio gelato on College Street beckoned. Unfortunately, the hunt for the real stuff (at least the creamy, intensely flavored version I remember from my trips to Italy) will go on after two failed attempts (including the much-touted Sicilian Sidewalk Cafe, which I'm embarrassed to say we tossed in the trash after waiting in line for 15 minutes...).

93 Harbord St. (at Spadina Ave, 4 blocks south of the TTC stop)
416-922-5914

A Detour to Seattle

2007-08-29T19:27:00.000-04:00

Having had many terrific meals over the 14 years we lived in Seattle, it says a lot that I would take up space here to report on one we had on our first trip back. I remembered eating at Monsoon once before and enjoying it, but our dinner there on Saturday night was nothing short of extraordinary. The James Beard Foundation got it right when it observed that Chef Eric Bahn "artfully merges the traditional flavorings from his native Vietnam with the bounty of the Pacific Northwest, and neither component is overshadowed by the other."

I can't get the carmelized idaho catfish claypot with coconut juice, green onions and thai chilies out of my mind - sweet, salty, spicy and sour all at once. Another stellar dish was the grilled monterey squid stuffed with duck meat, basil and jicama, with each flavor taking center stage as you ate. The Washington white corn and berkshire pork belly were a delicious combination - but perhaps even more inspired was nodrog's instinct to dunk a spoonful of both in the claypot to soak up the broth! The wine list was no less impressive - with many reasonably priced and interesting choices. Our recent fascination with German white wines was easily satisfied with a Hexamer riesling spatlese. Who says screw-tops can't compete with cork?

Now, how to convince them to open a branch in Toronto?

http://www.monsoonseattle.com/

March On Over

2007-08-18T23:10:00.000-04:00

Wanted: Good value take-out sushi on the way to the Docks Drive-In

Found: Good value take-out sushi worth driving across the city for!

Sushi Marché is a take-out find! Fresh fish, perfectly sticky rice and low overhead (take-out only) were the key ingredients of our $65 dinner. After "oohing" and "aahing" over the beautifully arranged platter, it didn't take long to down 2 California rolls, 1 hamachi roll, 1 shrimp tempura and avocado roll, 3 orders of hamachi sashimi (6 pieces), 2 orders of tuna sashimi (6 pieces) and 2 orders of unagi sushi (4 pieces), with the help of chilled sake from the LCBO!

1105 Queen Street E
416-463-0114

Caffeine on Queen

2007-08-18T22:53:00.000-04:00

We'll eventually take our planned whirlwind tour of espresso bars along Queen Street East, but this afternoon we got as far as Red Rocket Coffee at 1402B (just east of Greenwood Avenue). The staff "hellos" from the moment we walked in and the friendly chit-chat while we ordered immediately gave the place a welcoming atmosphere, but we were blown away when the manager delivered a just-baked pastry "on the house" when he heard we were new to Toronto! So much for low-carb livin... And the espresso? Our single macchiatos - with their dark chocolate finish - were the perfect pick-me-up!

http://www.redrocketcoffee.com/

BBQ in YYZ

2007-08-17T18:42:00.000-04:00

I do not purport to be a barbecue aficianado - indeed, I wouldn't even begin to enter the raging debate that I've personally witnessed among natives of Texas, North Carolina and Kansas City as they each defend the honour of their regional recipe. But what I can say is that the Black Camel serves delicious pulled pork with spicy barbecue sauce. Primarily a take-out joint with a few outside tables, Black Camel offers sandwiches of slow roasted beef brisket, pulled pork, pulled chicken or veggies, and on the day I visited, pulled lobster (prompting foodie nodrog to remark: "pulled must be the new confit").

4 Crescent Road at Yonge near the Rosedale TTC
http://www.blackcamel.ca/

What Were They Thinking?

2007-08-14T09:20:00.000-04:00

OK, let me see if I've got this right:

Money donated by Michael Lee-Chin to the Royal Ontario Museum: $30 million

Money spent to renovate the Royal Ontario Museum, including construction of the Daniel Libeskind-designed Michael Lee-Chin Crystal: $270 million

Money spent by the federal Canada-Ontario Infastructure Program to build the Michael Lee-Chin Crystal: $30 million

Money spent on tacky "push" and "pull" stickers on the doors to the Michael Lee-Chin Crystal: $2

This is architecture abuse!

Photo courtesy of nodrog

Dumplings Galore

2007-08-11T15:47:00.000-04:00

Strolling Spadina in the middle of Kensington Market, it's hard not to notice the Chinese woman in the storefront window shaping wonton-wrapper dumplings by hand. In a matter of minutes, the counter is piled high with dumplings, ready to be steamed or pan-fried. We took a seat at the Dumpling House Restaurant and ordered the $6 steamed medley - four each of 3 flavors from a list of about 10 options. We tried the pork and cabbage, shrimp and pork, and seafood. Oh, and the leftover beef dumplings the guy next to us urged us to finish as he got up to leave (no, we don't usually forage other tables for food, but since he offered...). They were all delicious, with just the right balance of chewy but not too thick outside and flavourful inside. We also shared the egg drop soup ($4), which had a rich broth filled with swirls of egg whites and floating paper-thin mushroom slices. This counts as the "cheap eats" I've been looking forward to since we decided to move to Toronto!

328 Spadina Ave, 416-596-8898, Open 11 am - 11 pm

PS: They only take cash, but there are two ATMs within two blocks.

Photo courtesy of nodrog

An Island Oasis

2007-08-09T20:46:00.000-04:00

The ferry to Centre Island was packed with people from stem-to-stern on Sunday afternoon, mainly families with kids in strollers and coolers filled with food for a feast. As the crowd spilled out onto the island, we began to wonder if we had made the right choice of excursion on this civic holiday weekend. But after a few minutes' walk, we left the hoards behind and began to find peace, quiet and a refreshing breeze along a path leading to a hidden gem: The Rectory Cafe. A pleasant smell beckoned us closer and we suddenly realized we had no choice but to enjoy a late lunch on the lakeside patio. Grilled salmon caesar salad and iced tea for two, please!

http://rectorycafe.com/

Lovin' Livia

2007-08-09T20:21:00.000-04:00

Tucked within Lileo, a clothing store in the Distillery District, Livia serves up healthy and delicious juices, salads and sandwiches. We ordered a $7 salad with a tasty combination of greens, pumpkin seeds, avocado and papaya, with a can of tuna mixed in for an extra $4 - easily enough for two hungry eaters to share. That plus a double espresso macchiato from Balzac's Coffee and you're good to go!

http://www.lileo.ca/about.html
http://www.balzacscoffee.com/

Cava Delights

2007-08-05T10:48:00.000-04:00

Rated by Toronto Life Magazine as one of the best new restaurants in 2007, Cava is a tapas bar located in a mall on Yonge just north of St. Clair. The service was excellent. When our cava mojitos were taking a bit longer than one might expect, our waiter brought us complimentary half-glasses of cava to toast with and take the edge off a long week. The dishes were served in a logical order at appropriate intervals:

*Watercress and roasted beet salad with marcona almonds - the crunch of the salty, oily nuts hidden under the watercress elevated this dish from ordinary to special
*Pinchos of sockeye salmon machaca and avocado - I had high hopes for this dish, but it was disappointingly bland and boring
*Croquetas of cauliflower and manchego with roasted tomato sauce - same comment as above
*Roast boneless quail filled with spiced chicken and served with Moorish style spinach - now you're talkin' - a great combination of flavors - close your eyes and you're in Morocco
*Swiss chard with pine nuts and currants - a tapa bar staple, good but not great
*Crispy braised pork belly with buckwheat noodle, new potato and savoy cabbage gratin - this may have been the best dish - lovingly prepared, it had that "slow food" quality, with a surprising combination of ingredients and flavors that "worked"
*Broiled, cider-glazed sablefish with black rice and escarole - a close tie for best dish - the fish had a crispy glaze on the outside, tender and melt-in-your mouth on the inside. The black rice cooked al dente had a pleasant nutty flavor.

The bill for two with wine came to about $105. PS - don't make the mistake of asking for the menu. Look down - it's the napkin holder!

http://www.cavarestaurant.ca/

Worth the Wait

2007-08-01T08:29:00.001-04:00

If you enter Pastis without reservations on a busy night, and the friendly owner Georges Gurnon says "it will be a few minutes, why don't you have a drink at the bar" and when twenty minutes go by while you sip champagne, he again says "it will be just five more minutes, they are paying their bill" and he tempts you with a slice of house-made pate on toasted french bread, and you suddenly realize it's been 20 more minutes and you're thinking of finding another place nearby to eat, do not be tempted because dinner here is worth the wait! I only need to describe the dishes and I think you'll be convinced:

*Herbed goat cheese on a bed of arugula with sweet pepper oil
*Creamy fish soup with a subtle note of pernod and freshly grated parmesan to sprinkle on top
*Pan-seared liver, prepared medium rare, in a delightful sauce with cloves of garlic and cubes of bacon, accompanied by a mound of crisp frites
*Veal scallopini with just the right touch of lemon, atop handmade tagliatelli
*A reasonably priced bottle of Alsatian pinot gris

Needless to say, we had no room for dessert...

At about $200 for 2, it's not cheap eats by any means, but I'd say it's a good value for the price - the food is delicious, the service is gracious, and the bustling French bistro atmosphere is a treat!

Pastis
1158 Yonge St. (at Marlborough Ave)
416-928-2212

A Meal to Remember

2007-07-29T09:06:00.000-04:00

I can't say enough good things about George on Queen, where we had dinner on Friday night - it's an amazing restaurant in every way:

http://www.georgeonqueen.com/

When you dine there in the summer, you have your choice of a table in the spacious dining room or on the delightful outdoor patio. We sat indoors in a booth that felt private and intimate, yet afforded a view of the whole dining area (including the patio, if we lifted the curtains to take a peek outside). The house-made sangria was served with fresh fruit juice (was it pomegranate and blueberry?) on top and white wine on the bottom - stirred together, it made for a refreshing way to start the meal - not too sweet, not too tart.

The menu is divided into categories: 1, 2 and 3. It's not entirely clear what the distinctions are, but our server suggested that each of us order one dish from each category. We did our own thing and ordered two from 2 and two from 3.

The food was interesting and delicious. The amuse bouche was a beautifully presented almond-shaped mound of tuna tartare with a rice-paper rol;. We samples a tender five-spiced squab, a delightful pairing of scallops and sweetbreads, seared lamb tenderloin and a pecan crusted halibut. The sauces and sides accompanying each dish elevated them to the memorable meal category (I admit, I didn't have my notepad with me or else I would have provided more details...I'll never forget it again!). A crisp riesling kabinet tied everything together. We savored every bite and left feeling pleasantly full (we had room for dessert but with no chocolate choice on the menu - white chocolate doesn't count - we decided to forgo).

We'll be back...

Cottage Country

2007-07-22T19:32:00.000-04:00

We just got back from our first visit to cottage country - a beautiful, peaceful spot near Gravenhurst on Little Lake.
http://www.gravenhurstchamber.com/Tourism/index.html

There were a number of tempting hand-crafted wood bowls, baskets and jewellery at the summer Muskoka Art and Craft show:
http://www.muskokaartsandcrafts.com/Art_&_Craft_Shows/Summer_Show/summer_show.htm

Haute Caffeine

2007-07-19T07:19:00.000-04:00

Arriving from Seattle, we were very concerned about finding good coffee. We didn't invest in a high-end espresso machine for over-roasted Starbucks beans. Never fear - Dark City Coffee Company is here - and the best news of all is that they deliver fresh-roasted beans within 24 hours after placing an order by phone! What a way to start the day.
http://www.darkcitycoffee.com/

Good Eats in Summerhill

2007-07-16T18:38:00.000-04:00

Having just moved into the neighborhood, with all of our belongings strewn about the house, the last thing we wanted to do was cook! Summerhill offers a dizzying array of take-out and dining-out options within walking distance, two of which are highlighted below. I can definitely get used to living in this city!

Fabulous take-out curried cauliflower and grilled chicken at All the Best Fine Foods http://www.allthebestfinefoods.com/

Romantic dinner on the patio at the Rosedale Diner - chunky gazpacho, grouper with salsa verde
http://www.rosedalediner.com/

Luscious raspberries from Harvest Wagon - delicious on their own, or gently stirred into vanilla yogurt for breakfast or dessert
http://www.harvestwagon.com/home.htm